Simple Changes

• Sometimes, simple alterations can dramatically improve fit. You can even make some of these without ever sewing a stitch. Take your measurements carefully and then take a tape measure to your pattern. Allow for wearing ease, seam allowances and stretch fabrics; however, if the measurements of the pattern and your body do not match up, you know that changes are required. One of the easiest pattern alterations is to simply blend from one size to another. This can help you address wider hips, account for broader shoulders or even improve the fit in the bust. You should also check length, both total length and torso length. Lengthen or shorten if needed, along the lines marked in the pattern for this purpose.
  
  

Make a Muslin

• One of the best ways to create a well-fitting garment is to make a test garment or a "muslin." Your muslin can be made of muslin, old sheets, cheap fabric or even simply a less expensive fabric for a wearable muslin. Cut your pattern out after making the changes suggested above. Seam it together using a long basting stitch. On your own or with the help of a friend, start pinning. You can add darts if needed to bring in the waist or take in at the seams, as appropriate. If necessary, remove your basting stitches and adjust to allow for additional room in part of the garment. Mark all of your changes and baste into place. When you are happy with the fit of your muslin, incorporate these changes into the original pattern and cut and sew your final, well-fitting and custom-tailored garment.
  
  

Learn Essential Pattern Modifications

• Every body is different, and sewing patterns do not account for these differences. If you are busty, learn to do a full bust adjustment to add additional room for your bust. Full bust adjustments can dramatically improve fit for anyone above a B cup. This can create a garment that not only fits better through the bust, but also through the shoulders and back. If you do opt for full bust adjustments, choose your pattern size based on your upper bust instead of full bust. You may also find that you routinely need to alter for your shoulders, hips or thighs. Once you know which alterations you need to make to create a custom fit, adapting commercial patterns will be a much faster and easier process.