Porch Railing and Balusters

• 1). Measure the distance between porch posts 3 inches and 39 inches from the top surface of the porch. Cut 2-inch by 4-inch pressure-treated lumber at each length with a miter saw. These pieces will be the top rail and the bottom rail.
  
  
• 2). Cut four pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch lumber 3 inches long for spacers. Mark the center of the top rail and the bottom rail. Cut a baluster 38 inches long from 2-inch by 2-inch pressure-treated lumber. Attach the baluster in the center of the top and bottom rails with either nails or deck screws. Use the 3-inch spacers to evenly space balusters on both sides of the first baluster. Cut enough balusters so there is no space bigger than 3 inches.
  
  
• 3). Place a 3-inch spacer by each porch post, and set the railing on top of the spacers. Use a level to ensure that the railing is sitting even, and attach it with 3-inch decking screws.
  
  
• 4). Cut a 2-inch by 6-inch pressure-treated board at the same length as the top rail. This is called the railing cap. Attach the railing cap to the top rail with 2-1/2-inch decking screws. The screw heads will sit between the balusters and go through the top rail into the bottom of the railing cap. Attach the railing cap to the porch posts with 3-inch decking screws for added stability. If the railing is more than 6 feet long, cut a 3-inch spacer to place under the center of the railing to keep the railing from being able to sag. Install railing around the perimeter of the porch.
  
  

Stair Railing and Balusters

• 1). Use clamps to hold a 2-inch by 4-inch pressure-treated board on the top of the stair treads. Place a speed square along the bottom edge of the 2-inch by 4-inch board. Hold a level perfectly horizontal where the 2-inch by 4-inch board and the inside corner of the speed square meet. This is the nose angle.
  
  
• 2). Use the speed square to mark a level line even with the bottom edge of the top rail on the side of the porch post where the stair rail will be installed. Clamp a 2-inch by 4-inch board on its side to the side of the porch post and bottom stair post at the same angle as the nose angle. Adjust the top 2-inch by 4-inch board until the angles at the porch post and the stair are identical and the bottom edge of the board intersects where the mark on the porch post is located. Write down this final angle.
  
  
• 3). Mark the bottom stair post where the bottom of the top 2-inch by 4-inch board touches it. Adjust the bottom 2-inch by 4-inch board until the two ends are the same distance from the top board, and mark both posts where the bottom of the bottom board intersects each one. Remove the 2-inch by 4-inch boards.
  
  
• 4). Measure and cut the top and bottom rail with the nose angle on each end. Set the bottom rail temporarily in place, and mark the porch post at the top of the bottom rail where it meets with the porch post. Measure the distance between the top bottom rail mark and the bottom top rail mark, and cut five balusters at that length with the nose angle on both ends.
  
  
• 5). Mark the centers of the top rail and the bottom rail. Set the railing temporarily in place, and use a level to ensure that all the balusters are running plumb. Remove the railing and fill in the rest of the balusters. Install the railing.
  
  
• 6). Use a level to mark a line on the bottom stair post that extends evenly with the top edge of the top rail. Cut the post evenly on that line with a reciprocating saw. Measure the distance from the porch post to the end of the bottom stair post, and add 3 inches for the overhang. Cut a 2-inch by 6-inch pressure-treated board at that length with the nose angle, and install the railing cap. Install each stair railing.