How to Make Medieval Doublets
- 1). Choose your pattern. Your pattern will vary depending on the time period and nationality you wish to portray. In general, a Northern European pattern should have a straighter side silhouette with short, wide poofs at the shoulders, while Italian doublets had a barrel-shaped torso with longer, narrower poofs at the shoulders. Doublet patterns should have four body pieces, with a separate collar and sleeves. They should also have a skirt, either in separate pieces or designed into the bodice.
- 2). Choose your fabric. Your fabric choice will depend on what you are portraying. For historical accuracy, use linen, silk, or velvet in muted colors, to replicate the plant and animal dyes used at the time. Leather can be used for a workman's doublet. Most doublets were in solid colors rather than patterns. Cut all the pieces from the same cloth if possible. Sleeves can be a different color if you are short on fabric.
- 3). Measure yourself or whomever is going to wear the doublet before pinning and cutting out the pattern. Cut the pattern at the size that fits the most measurements, and adjust it down if any areas are too big to pad comfortably. For example, the neck can be made larger by extending the collar and making the curves that form the neckhole larger. The slimmest part of the doublet bodice is at the natural waist, so adjust the length of the bodice if necessary.
- 4). Sew the fabric together. Begin by pinning the two back pieces together, right sides together, and sewing them. Sew the skirt pieces, called piccadils, onto the back if they were not included as one piece. Sew the front pieces to the back at the shoulders and sides. Leave the front open if your doublet will button or lace in the front; otherwise, sew this closed. Attach the front piccadils if necessary. Sew the collar together if the pattern has it in more than one piece. Attach it to the bodice. Attach the sleeves. Hem the raw edges by turning them over twice for an unlined doublet, or replicate the bodice and arms and attach it on the inside for lining.
- 5). Add embellishments. The final touches on a doublet will make it look richer and more like a nobleman. Trimmings, cording, or embroidery can be used at the armholes, collar, and edges. Buttons can also accent a doublet.
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