Site Preparation

• 1
  Soil testing is an easy and inexpensive way to know exactly what your soil needs.Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images
  
  Test the existing soil. Either collect and send a sample to a lab specializing in soil analysis or obtain a do-it-yourself kit. This will indicate if any additional soil amendments are warranted to create an environment conducive for good turf establishment.
  
  
• 2
  Break up any soil clumps with a rake to ensure an even surface for your turf.Hemera Technologies/Photos.com/Getty Images
  
  Spread the screened topsoil by wheelbarrow, shovel and rake, evenly over the area to be seeded to a depth of between 1/2- to 1-inch thick. Address any low areas or potential drainage concerns at this stage. Fill low spots and make sure that the lawn slopes away from the house or buildings.
  
  
• 3
  A thin layer of peat moss can be incorporated into the soil prior to seeding.Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images
  
  Add any amendments required. If a soil analysis indicated that your soil's pH was too high (over 7.0) or that it lacked sufficient organic material, spread amendments over the soil and work them in gently with a rake. Peat moss will help to lower the pH, aerate the soil and help it to retain moisture. Compost will add organic material and nutrients.
  
  
• 4
  Know the difference between warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses and select accordingly.Jupiterimages/liquidlibrary/Getty Images
  
  Spread grass seed as per recommended rates. The size of individual grass seeds vary greatly depending on species. Rates can range between 2 to 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of lawn area up to 6 to 8 pounds per 1000 square feet. Make sure to select a blend appropriate for your climate. Use a rake to incorporate the seed into the top 1/4 inch of fresh soil.
  
  
• 5
  Phosphorous is the middle number on a bag of fertilizer.Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
  
  Apply a starter fertilizer per label recommendations over the top of the newly seeded lawn. This will help the seed to get the needed phosphorous for good root development.
  
  
• 6
  Make sure to use straw and not hay, as hay contains seeds which will germinate and outcompete grass seedlings.Photos.com/Photos.com/Getty Images
  
  Apply a 1 inch layer of straw over the seeded areas. This will help to moderate the soil temperature, retain moisture, and protect the seed from birds. The straw will decompose as the grass begins to grow.
  
  
• 7
  New lawns can quickly dry out if they don't reqeive frequent irrigation.Stockbyte/Stockbyte/Getty Images
  
  Irrigate the newly seeded area. Plan on watering every day in the absence of rain. Germinating grass seed requires approximately 1/8- to 1/4-inch of water per day. Continue irrigating until the seedlings have obtained a height of 1/2 inch. Watering can be cut back to approximately once per week then so long as the lawn receives approximately 1 inch of water weekly.
  
  

Post-Establishment Maintenance

• 1
  Rainfall can provide sufficient irrigation to established lawns most of the time.Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
  
  Continue weekly irrigation on new lawns even after the turf has fully established. After your lawn has matured, this can be further reduced to applying on an as-needed basis in the absence of rain.
  
  
• 2
  Mow your lawn to the recommended height based on the type of species that you have.Jupiterimages/BananaStock/Getty Images
  
  Mow your new lawn once it has obtained a height of approximately 3 inches. Make sure to use a mower with sharp blades. Grass mowed with dull blades can be stresses and grow poorly. Tips of grass mowed with dull blades often turn brown.
  
  
• 3
  Nitrogen is the first number on a bag of fertilizer.Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
  
  Begin a maintenance regimen of fertilizer applications after your new lawn has been mowed at least 3 times. You can use combination fertilizers that have weed killer and insect killer if these problems develop. Lawns should be fertilized between one and four times per year. Total nitrogen applied over the course of a season should be between 1 and 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn area.